LA PALETTE has its roots in the beautiful hilly landscape of the Orchard of Saint-Martin d’Auxigny, in Berry in the heart of France.
The Chardon family are fruit growers and have been growing apples here for generations. Until the early 1950s, Saint-Martin d’Auxigny was the kingdom of the Cravert, an apple variety typical of Berry as it was discovered as a seedling in the forest of Allogny, which “shelters” the orchards and fans out on their slopes. The orchards are situated at the intersection of three natural regions: the Pays Fort, the Sologne and the Champagne berrichonne.
After much success, the Cravert was replaced towards the end of the 1950s by the Golden Delicious, an American variety that would thrive particularly well in Saint-Martin d’Auxigny: in the 1960s, it became the leading apple variety to be grown in the orchards of Berry and, thereafter, all over France and the world.
On this great terroir, ideal for growing dessert apples, the orchards were developed and perfected
via new care, protection and irrigation techniques.
The apples of Saint-Martin d’Auxigny were reputed for their tastiness and they sold very well. The producers’ hard work, combined with the Cosama cooperative’s dynamism, had done its work.
However, in the mid-1980s, the first difficulties appeared. Apple prices fluctuated and often fell significantly.
Yet the fruit growers of Berry hung on, continuing to perfect their profession, producing increasingly delicious apples. The Cosama cooperative actively sought out innovative commercial solutions and new markets. But the changing world dealt terrible blows to the apples of the Haut-Berry area. Gradually, there was less and less opportunity and doubt set in, accompanied by discouragement. Many farms ceased trading. An increasing number of orchards were pulled out, driving the fruit growers to despair. It was now the end of the 1990s and the decline of apple cultivation in Berry seemed irremediable.
In 2011, over twenty-five years after the difficulties began, the landscape of Saint-Martin d’Auxigny has become something altogether different. The size of the orchards has considerably diminished, dropping from over 900 hectares in 1980 to around 350 hectares in 2011.
This situation is profoundly sad.
Because, while the landscape may well have changed, the terroir remains, and will remain, well and truly the same. It combines the same qualities of geology, hydrology and exposure … And the local human know-how in order to prevail as an excellent orchard, ideally adapted to apple cultivation.
The cultivation of dessert apples on the terroir of Saint-Martin d’Auxigny is age-old. This historical presence is exclusive.
The terroir of Saint-Martin d’Auxigny thus demonstrates, and to the highest degree, all the characteristics necessary to become a great ‘AOC’ for apples.
Such a designation would be an official recognition of the qualities inherent in the Saint-Martin d’Auxigny apple and this label would allow it to reach those people who know and love, those who seek out and favour character and quality, just as they do in wine …
The dream could become reality…